How to Level an RV (and Stabilize It) at the Campsite — Without Making the Big Mistake
Pull into a campsite, and two jobs stand between you and relaxing: getting your rig level and getting it stabilized. Sounds like the same thing, right? Here's the mistake I see all the time, and it's a doozy: folks think their stabilizer jacks also level the camper. They do not. Not even a little. And using them that way can actually bend your jacks and stress your frame. So let's clear this up for good and do both jobs the right way.
I'm Joe — Squatch to most folks — and welcome to another beginner-series breakdown here on Camping with Squatch. Today we're tackling how to level an RV and then stabilize it, why they're two totally different jobs, and the myths that get new owners in trouble. Get this right and your fridge works, your sleep improves, and your rig stops bouncing like a trampoline every time somebody walks to the bathroom. Let's do it.
Leveling vs. Stabilizing: The Myth That Causes Real Damage
Let's kill the big myth right out of the gate, because it matters:
Leveling means getting your rig flat — even side-to-side and front-to-back. This is done with your wheels, leveling blocks, and your tongue jack or landing gear.
Stabilizing means stopping the rig from rocking and bouncing once it's already level and parked. This is the job of your stabilizer jacks.
Here's the part that trips everybody up: your stabilizer jacks are NOT levelers. Those little scissor jacks (or drop-down jacks) on a travel trailer are designed only to steady the rig and reduce movement — not to lift it or level it. If you crank down on a stabilizer to raise a low corner, you can bend the jack, twist your frame, and end up with a rig that's still not level and now damaged.
So the rule is simple: level first using your wheels and tongue jack. Stabilize last, and only to stop the wobble. Two separate jobs, in that order. Now let's walk through it.
Why Leveling Even Matters
Before the how, here's the why — because it's not just about comfort:
Your refrigerator needs it. Many RV fridges (the absorption type) rely on gravity to circulate their cooling fluid, and running them noticeably un-level can hurt cooling and even damage the fridge over time. This alone is reason enough.
Comfort. Sleeping with your head lower than your feet, or chasing a rolling can across the counter, gets old fast.
Doors and slide-outs operate properly on a level rig.
Your drains and plumbing work the way they're supposed to.
Close enough is generally fine for modern fridges — you don't need laboratory-perfect — but get it reasonably level. Now, the steps.
How to Level an RV: Step by Step (Travel Trailer / 5th Wheel)
Do these in order — the order is what makes it easy.
Step 1: Pick the most level spot you can. The flatter the site to start, the less work you'll do. Eyeball it before you commit.
Step 2: Check how off you are. Use a bubble level on the floor or frame, a level app on your phone, or stick-on bubble levels mounted on the front and side of your trailer. Figure out which side is low and whether the front or back is high.
Step 3: Level side-to-side FIRST — while you're still hitched. This is key. Put your leveling blocks or curved ramp levelers in front of (or behind) the tires on the low side, then pull or back the trailer up onto them until it's even side-to-side. Doing this while still hitched to your tow vehicle is way easier than trying to move an unhitched trailer.
Step 4: Chock your wheels. Once you're side-to-side level and positioned, chock the wheels so the rig can't roll. (X-chocks between tandem axles add extra steadiness.)
Step 5: Unhitch from the tow vehicle.
Step 6: Level front-to-back. Now use your tongue jack (travel trailer) or landing gear (5th wheel) to raise or lower the front until you're level front-to-back.
That's it — you're level. Notice we have not touched the stabilizer jacks yet. That's on purpose.
Now — and Only Now — Stabilize
With the rig level and chocked, lower your stabilizer jacks until they make firm contact with the ground and snug up. The goal is to stop movement, not to lift the rig. If you find yourself cranking hard and watching a corner rise, stop — you're misusing them.
A few tips here:
Put pads or blocks under the jacks on soft ground or hot asphalt so they don't sink.
Snug, not strained. Firm contact is the target.
That's all stabilizers do — kill the bounce so the rig feels solid when you move around inside.
A Quick Note for Motorhome Owners
If you've got a motorhome with a hydraulic or electric auto-leveling system, much of this happens at the push of a button — those are heavy-duty leveling jacks built for the job, which is different from the lightweight stabilizer jacks on a towable. Still, the principle holds: those systems level; they're engineered for it. On a travel trailer, your scissor jacks are not.
Common Mistakes (Don't Be That Camper)
Using stabilizer jacks to level. The big one. They bend; your frame doesn't like it; you're still not level. Don't.
Trying to level side-to-side after unhitching. Way harder. Do it while hitched so you can drive onto the blocks.
Forgetting to chock before unhitching. That's how trailers roll away. Chock first.
Stabilizers on bare soft ground. They'll sink and do nothing. Use pads.
Cranking stabilizers so hard they lift the rig. Snug, not strained.
Driving off with the stabilizers down. Add "retract stabilizers" to your pre-trip routine — ask me how I know.
Squatch Tips: Leveling and Stabilizing Made Easy
Here's what I tell every new owner:
Level first, stabilize last. Always. If you remember one thing, make it this. Wheels and tongue jack level; stabilizers only steady.
Side-to-side while hitched, front-to-back after. That sequence saves you a ton of hassle.
Get a level on the rig. Cheap stick-on bubble levels (one on the front, one on the side) let you see your level at a glance while you set up. Worth every penny.
Carry pads for everything. Jack pads under your stabilizers and tongue jack keep them from sinking into grass, gravel, or soft asphalt.
Don't chase perfection. Reasonably level is plenty for modern fridges. Get it close, stop fussing, and go enjoy the campfire.
That's the heart of Camping with Squatch — knowing the difference between two jobs everybody lumps together, so you set up right, protect your rig, and relax faster.
Print This: Campsite Leveling & Stabilizing Checklist
Tape it inside a cabinet for setup day.
Level First (in this order)
[ ] Pick the most level spot available
[ ] Check level (bubble level / app / stick-on levels)
[ ] Side-to-side: blocks/ramps under the LOW-side tires — WHILE HITCHED
[ ] Pull/back onto the blocks until side-to-side level
[ ] Chock the wheels (X-chocks for tandems)
[ ] Unhitch from the tow vehicle
[ ] Front-to-back: level with tongue jack / landing gear
Stabilize Last
[ ] Lower stabilizer jacks to FIRM contact only (don't lift the rig)
[ ] Pads/blocks under jacks on soft ground or hot asphalt
[ ] Snug, not strained
Don't Forget
[ ] Stabilizers are NOT levelers — never lift/level with them
[ ] Retract all stabilizers before you travel (add to pre-trip check)
Settle In the Right Way
Leveling and stabilizing aren't the same job, and now you know the difference — which puts you ahead of a whole lot of folks out there bending their jacks trying to level with them. Level with your wheels and tongue jack, stabilize only to stop the bounce, take your time, and your fridge, your sleep, and your rig will all thank you.
And if you're shopping for a rig and want somebody to actually show you how its leveling and stabilizing setup works — instead of handing you the keys and a good-luck wave — come find me at A&L RV Sales in Christiana, just outside Murfreesboro. Give me a call or text at 615-653-7561, or follow along with Camping with Squatch for more straight talk made for new owners. No pressure, ever — I just want you set up easy and camping happy.
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